Chena Hot Springs Resort, Alaska

On our third day in Fairbanks, the rain finally let up and a clear night was forecast.  We headed out to the resort of Chena Hot Springs which is about an hour’s drive north-east of Fairbanks.  By escaping the light pollution of town we were in a better position to get a glimpse of the Northern Lights. We were also keen to visit another hot spring as we thoroughly enjoying the relaxing experience last time at Liard River Hot Springs Campground in Yukon. The ice museum at the resort also gets an excellent write up on TripAdvisor, so we were intrigued to visit.

Our Alaska guide book, The Milepost, stated that there were many places to boondock on the road the Chena Hot Springs road alongside the Chena River.  Free camping in remote Alaska - YES please!   And if the campground happened to be full or if the lights didn't show themselves that meant we could spend a few nights nearby for free waiting for them to make their magical appearance.

We knew that it was a bit pricey for the hot springs entry at $15 each per day on top of $20 for the campsite.  In Liard River, Yukon the hot springs access was included in the very reasonable cost of the campsite.  Chena doesn't look like much when you first arrive and the campsite is a bit neglected with potholes and overgrown trees.  It was virtually empty so after inspecting every site to ensure we got a site that slopes the right way for Winnie to balance out her low front end, and not too many trees around obscuring the night sky, we chose the best spot by the river and paid up.  At 7pm we headed out for the evening tour of the ice museum.  We had no idea how much it was going to be and as we joined the tour at the door, we realised we were supposed to book it and pay in advance.  The guide informed us it was $15 each for a short tour and an extra $15 for an apple Martini in a handmade ice glass!  Feeling the pressure of impatient ticket holders we agreed to the tour and said we would probably have one Martini between the two of us.

I didn't know what to expect inside the ice museum.  The word "museum" always makes things sound boring to me, but surely no museum that serves apple Martini can be that bad!  Neither of us has ever been to anything like it before, but quite a few people we know have been to Icebar in London and raved about it.

We were offered thermal coats at the door but we had come prepared with our own coats and gloves for me.  They apparently have students who work on their sculptures during the day.   Just inside the door was a workshop with lots of tools on one side and on the other side was their stock of huge ice blocks which are harvested from the local lakes every winter and stored for use throughout the year!  Then we went through into the bar area which was so cozy, complete with a fake fireplace lit up with an orange glow.  The globes on top of the balustrades were absolutely fantastic – I still have no idea how the hell they manage to make those!  They also had an altar area for weddings to take place and two hotel bedrooms at the far end.  Apparently they tried to register it as a hotel, but the powers that be rejected it because it doesn't have a sprinkler system. Like an ice room has a great need for a sprinkler system!

We shared the Martini cocktail and it was fab, but I was more impressed with the workmanship that goes into making a stemmed ice glass!  Apparently the ice carvers love their work so much they have a stock of 16,000 Martini glasses!  I could imagine that I would love a vocation in ice carving if only I didn't feel the cold so much.  My gloved fingers were numb after only half an hour or so in there - it is only about 24-27 degrees Fahrenheit which is minus 3-4 Celsius.  I just can’t handle the cold!

With all photographs taken I was keen to get warmed up and what better way to do it than in a hot spring!

There was one large outdoor pool surrounded by large rocks placed strategically so that it was possible to climb out of the water and cool down.  The water is so hot that the maximum recommended immersion time is only 20-30 minutes, any longer and you risk hyperthermia.  At the price we paid we wanted a little more than half an hour for our money; so we hauled ourselves out at the hot end for a recovery rest.  We also discovered that the cool water jet at the side gave a fantastic back and foot massage.  The pool was surrounded by beautiful gardens with huge sunflowers in full bloom.  There was also a cooler indoor pool for the kids, but this was somewhat dated and seeing the colour of the water was a bit off-putting (what percentage of the water was actually pee?!).

After about an hour and a half of dipping in and out of the scorching water and starting to feel a bit light headed we decided to make our leave.  I had spotted the free showers in the changing room on the way in and couldn’t wait to take full advantage of a shower without the worry of having to conserve every drop of water, as we do in the RV.  We have been living on military style showers, and sink washing since we moved into Winnie, so an unlimited shower is SUCH a luxury now!  I had told Adam of my intention to make the most of it so we agreed that he would head back without me.  When I emerged from my shower (surprisingly early by all accounts), the front desk was warning guests that there was a black bear roaming around the campground.  Oh shit, I thought, Adam has just gone back there on his own, but at least he had the bear spray.  Oh that’s right, now I had to walk back on my own without the bear spray – great!! Thankfully, he had got the news just in time and decided to hang around and wait for me…thanks baby :D!!  We walked back together making loads of noise and didn’t meet any bears in the trees of the darkening dusk.

We settled in ready for a long night, and had a late night feast - cheeseboard with grapes, apples and bread.  This was washed down with a couple of frozen margaritas accompanied by some soft rock on the only radio channel.  We peered out of the windows excitedly watching and waiting.   At just gone midnight we went out to the mini airstrip just outside the campground which has an open view of the sky.  The sky was mostly clear, but the full moon was drenching the landscape in light, and there were no signs at all of the elusive northern lights. We went out again an hour later, by which time it was quite cold, and we saw nothing.  Coldness and tiredness overtook us at 2 or 3 am and once we got in bed to keep warm we were soon asleep. Northern lights: #Fail

The next morning we went to see the resident huskies at  their kennels. About a hundred adorable dogs welcomed us with wagging tails and howls of excitement.  They were all chained up, with signs warning not to touch the dogs.  They are taken out just for gentle exercise in the summer, but no mushing as they don't cope well with strenuous activity in warm weather.  They are sled dogs and happy in temperatures as low as minus 50 to 60 Celsius in the winter! They are a gorgeous breed of dog, and Adam and I would love one, but MK sadly is not the right climate for them.  I think Adam would happily move to Canada if it meant we could get one (or two!).  He, like the huskies, rarely feels the cold.  I, on the other hand, may not survive the winters!   

We spent the following night at one of the free boondocking sites, but the weather took a turn for the worst and it peed down all night. We woke to a dreaded leak from the seal of our motorhome's slide-out – not good!  The result was a soaked carpet and spot of de-lamination on the woodwork, but thankfully the ceiling was not involved.  The rain just wouldn’t let up so we could do little to resolve the situation.  We realised it leaked a lot less with the slide in so we spent the evening more cramped than we like.  It was the next day before it was dry enough to put some sealant on the joints. Our first attempt failed and we had the same problem again, but now we think we’re sorted.  It rained all last night and the carpet is as dry as a bone.  And a few nights ago on a dry clear night we finally got a spectacular show of the Northern Lights! Happy days!