Glacier National Park, Montana

A long time ago when we initially started dreaming about this epic trip, I was sitting on the sofa one dreary, rainy and cold Sunday evening, browsing Google Earth to improve my geography of the USA and Canada and dreading having to get up early the following morning for another fun packed day at MK hospital.

I love just zooming in and clicking on the panoramic photos.  It makes time fly by unbelievably quickly, which is not what you want with the last few precious hours of your weekend before you become someone else's bitch slave for another week....

Anyway, I remember quite clearly coming across some amazingly beautiful photos of Lake Josephine.  I got so excited I just had to show Adam and we were both so mesmerised that we vowed to save harder to make our dreams a reality, so I put a pin on the map and it was added to the itinerary as a must-not-miss stop!

Well, we have visited quite a few spectacular lakes and forests and mountains already on our travels, those of particular note were Teton national park, Mount Rainer and Olympic national park.  On our long detour back east after visiting Seattle and Vancouver we were a little apprehensive that Lake Josephine might just be "another lake".

As we approached the trail-head near Many Glacier campground, the skies got darker and darker and the rumblings of a storm were fast approaching. As the heavens opened, we decided to give it a miss.

We had to make a decision about whether to spend another night in Glacier national park or simply drive on as we were on a time schedule to reach Medicine Hat in Alberta for the weekend to see a family friend.  We had a dilemma because the cheap official campsite we had earmarked was full.

We had been given a list of other campsites in the area which  was helpful, given that phone signal and possibility of getting online in these remote places is zilch.

Whilst we were debating it I remembered how this spot was one of the places that inspired us so much in the early days and decided that we must somehow find somewhere to stay and make sure we saw it.  

Eventually we found our way into a farmers yard strewn with old rusty vehicles and machinery with three horses and a dog roaming loose.  For a while we thought we must have taken a wrong turn and were worried we may struggle to turn around or upset a farmer with a gun.  Suddenly a man appeared from nowhere and said he had a spot for us by the river on a gravel pad for $15.  Adam later told me the first thing that popped into his head when the guy showed up was "Texas Chainsaw Massacre".  Thankfully he kept this to himself at the time.  The price was 2-3 times cheaper than many of the other campsites nearby so apprehensively we took it.  By the time we got settled in, the weather had already started to clear up.  It often does this so spontaneously that it's hard to believe what it was like just half an hour before.  It was the quietest night we had had for a while and the next morning we awoke to glorious sunshine again.

The scenery is just so much more vivid with the sun shining.  As we drove back into the park, the grey lakes of the day before had been transformed back to the lushest turquoise, and the sun sparkling off the water was almost blinding and reflecting brightly off the glaciers high up in the mountain tops. We parked up and set off on a 5.5 mile hike around Swiftcurrent Lake and Lake Josephine. Words cannot describe how clear and perfect the water is in these lakes, the evergreen forests on the mountain slopes creating a picturesque frame from every angle.

After only a 1/4 mile walk from the car park we were delighted and a little nervous to come across a small black bear in the forest a metre or so from the trail.  I spotted it first, just as three other hikers passed us in the opposite direction.  There are warnings everywhere about black bears and grizzly bears as you enter these parks because bears are not as cute and cuddly as you are led to believe as a child.  We had already seen black bears and a grizzly bear in Yellowstone at a much safer distance, but this time we were potentially in the danger zone if the bear felt threatened.  Of greater concern to us at the time was that this bear appeared quite small,  approx 1/2 meter tall maybe, and if momma bear was lurking somewhere nearby, she might not have appreciated us coming between her and her baby.  So after another quick glance at the little bear and a longer glance over our shoulders, we kept walking along the trail away from the bear, hearts racing a little more than usual and just slightly miffed that we had not dared to hang around to get a photo (but still not in any hurry to go back!).

We warned another single lady hiker of the likelihood that she may run into our furry friend, and of my perceived danger that a momma bear may be nearby.  She looked like a pro with her double hiking poles, full khaki gear and bear spray.  As she wandered off she started to whistle loudly and speak aloud "hello little bear!".  This is actually precisely what all the info tells you to do:  Make as much noise as possible to let them know you are approaching, so as not to startle them.  We heard no screams from the forest as she passed so presumed all went well!

We continued our hike on to the head of Lake Josephine and as it came into view through the trees it was even more breathtaking than we had dreamed.  High mountains either side increasing in height with snowy ledges in the distance, crystal clear waters with turquoise tint gently lapping on a pebble beach.  Unfortunately we were not alone and the bugs were a menace.  We had brought a backpack and picnic to enjoy at this halfway point, but I could not sit still on the beach for even a second without having to bat flies and tiny mosquitoes off my arms, legs, out of my ears... Aargh!

There was a short wooden pier off the pebble beach, which we went off to explore with our sandwiches in hand because the flies seem to bother you less if you keep moving.  To our relief we found some reprieve from the critters by sitting at the end of the pier, so we settled to finish off the rest of our lunch.  What a view, it could not have been more perfect!

 There was a boat taking park visitors up and down the lake and we could see it was making its way back towards the pier. We debated asking how much it was, but as it got closer the passengers looked so enclosed and packed in that we decided that an adventure on foot may be more enjoyable.  Then again, with the heat of the day beating down upon us and the bugs in their thousands maybe not!  Nevertheless, we marched off purposefully around the lake.  At first it was lovely, then the path got narrower and I found myself up to my armpits in foliage.  The views were spectacular, the biting mosquitoes and bushes prickling against my bare legs was not! But it was still well worth it for the fantastic memories!

We continued along the path for a good hour or so and it ended on another high when we saw a couple of moose cooling off and grazing in the lake.  One was munching on the grasses growing from the bottom of the lake, and a stag simply appeared to be swimming for the fun of it!

That night we were determined to find a free boondocking site just outside the gates of the national park, and with some perseverance we eventually did. On our third scan of the road we picked out a suitable spot with previous signs of camping activity (ie a fire-ring and sadly some rubbish which we later cleared up). 

The track down to what appeared to be a public boat launch was deeply rutted and steep and I was worried about damaging the underside of Winnie, but we took it slow and thankfully no damage was done. Its a long way for a tow truck to come and rescue you if you get into trouble out here!  As we filled up most of the available camping space we effectively had our own private beach on the lake which we took full advantage of  after dinner. The water was crystal clear and really cold, but delightfully refreshing on a hot evening.

So what's the verdict on Glacier NP? We were overwhelmed by some of the best lakeside views and wildlife yet, truly breathtaking! I can only begin to imagine how beautiful yet hostile an environment Glacier NP would become in the winter months.   The bears and other local wildlife must surely take true ownership when the snow falls!